Bremen Marktplatz

After a mere twenty days at home, we set-off an a two-month tour of France and Spain.  We had never taken the caravan to Spain before and had decided it was high-time to rectify this omission.  Unlike for our tour of Germany, I had not prepared a detailed itinerary, only a few broad ideas of where to go.  The major decision was whether to go into Spain (a) via Andorra or (b) further west via the Somport tunnel (south of Pau) or (c) head for the Med before swinging south.  In the end, the potential pleasures of cycling along the Canal du Midi meant we opted for (c).  As before, we crossed the Channel from Dover to Calais with P&O Ferries  and continued to the cathedral city of Chartres.  As noted (left), the municipal site is located on the bank of the River Eure and one can make a delightful stroll along the river into the city centre to view the cathedral etc.


                        Cathedral West Front                                                                The Blue Virgin Window (12th Century)

From Chartres we headed down the N154, A71 and A20 to Bonnac la Cote and the Les Castels site we had used last year.  The weather was somewhat mixed and as noted (left), we were less amoured with the site this year than last.  In addition, just a week before our arrival there had been a severe gale and our attempts at repeating some of last year's hikes were thwarted by fallen trees.  Leaving Bonnac somewhat earlier than originally planned, we headed south on the N21, A89 and D20 to the bastide town of Duras, SW of Bergerac.  Very pleasant undulating mix of woodland and vineyards with the local Cote du Duras wines worthy of sampling.  Bergerac itself is well worth a visit.     

Now came decision time as to what route to take into Spain and as noted above, we chose to head for the Med, stopping on the way at Lezignan-Corbieres for twelve nights. The site there is just some 5km away from the Canal du Midi so we were able to make our first two rides along the canal direct from the site. For subsequent rides we put the bikes on the roof-rack and headed to previous end-points.  This way, were able to cover the canal from Trebes to Beziers plus the Canal de la Robine into the centre of Narbonne.  The first ride took us from the site to the canal at Argens-Mivervois then westwards to La Redorte, stopping for an excellent lunch at a water-side restaurant in Homps. A marvellous experience in superb weather.  On another day we drove to Le Sommeil in order to start a ride to Capestang. We were astonished to find Le Sommeil absolutely jam-packed with parked cars and hordes of people - we had to drive out to the other side of the village in order to park and unload the bikes. Turns out that the village was host to a huge flea-market………. However, we enjoyed yet another super bike ride along the canal bank in glorious weather - thank goodness for the shade provided by the plane trees. By luck, we stumbled upon a super restaurant in Capestang, set in a well-shaded courtyard close to the cathedral (La Table du Vigneron, Domain Cros-Reboul. http://latable-duvigneron.magix.net/website )  Four very good courses for €17 and a superb bottle of their own white wine for €7.50 - excellent value and very enjoyable.  We found it entertaining to pause at the numerous locks and watch the hire-boats trying to maneouvre in and out without losing their damage-deposit.  If you have never explored the Canal du Midi, either by bike or by boat, then I cannot recommend strongly-enough that this omission should be rectified!  There are many web sites with information about the canal and one that gives very good, comprehensive information on all aspects of the canal can be found at this address (best opened with IE rather than Firefox).
On a non-cycling day we drove up into hills to the ancient fortified village of Minerve, a village as old as any in Languedoc.  As with many such villages in the region, it's fortifications did not prevent it's fall to Simon de Montfort during the Albigensian Crusades and the subsequent slaughter of the inhabitants.  Dramatically situated on a high bluff above two rivers, little has been done to the village since de Monfort's savage visit and it is now home to potters and artists. Just outside the village are massive tunnels eroded through the limestone bluffs by streams and these are worth exploring.

Leaving Lezignan-Corbieres we headed for Spain via the A9 and then the AP7 heading south around Barcelona.  After the low density traffic on most French autoroutes, we found the frenetic activity on the AP7 to be almost a match for the M25.  However, the peace and quiet at our new site Camping Torra de La Mora soon had us relaxed once more.  The site is set in a small bay, with wooded headlands either side and not a high-rise in sight anywhere. Our pitch was alongside the beach and thirty seconds after stepping out of the awning we were on the beach and another thirty seconds later, in the water. Amazingly, for someone who has always been reluctant to have a seaside holiday, the combination of weather, location, campsite etc won me over - hence the five-week stay. We found ourselves in a German enclave and thoroughly enjoyed socialising with them.  As some of them had been going to the site since the '60s, they were a fund of local knowledge. When we mentioned to our neighbour (an ex-German Navy Lieutenant Commander) that we were contemplating heading N to the Gulf of Roses he advised that both air and sea temperatures were noticeably lower there and it was much windier. Checking this out in weather reports backed this up, so that was one of the reasons we stayed put. We swam frequently, sometimes morning and afternoon, walked over the headlands, through the pine woods to other bays/beaches or to the next village of Altafulla, cycled further to Torredembarra, twice by bus into Tarragona (lovely city full of Roman ruins) and once by train to Barcelona (marvellous day out). Unusually for us we made quite frequent use of the site restaurant which is set in the brand new magnificent pool/sport complex. Well, at €12 for a very good four-course meal with a bottle of wine and mineral water included, who could resist?  Would we go back?  Yes, at some point we certainly will.

                                       Camping Torra De La Mora                                                                            La Mora - Beach & Campsite

After five weeks we reluctantly had to leave and head for Calais.  After checking out various options on the X-Trail's satnav system we chose to head back via Lezignan-Corbieres and Limoges.  Once back into France on the A9 we found the mistral to be blowing fiercely, accompanied by heavy rain.  Even slowing down to <80kph, the crosswind made for unpleasant driving.  In hindsight we would have been better off on the N9, which is less exposed.  Luckily, by next morning the mistral had dropped and we had an enjoyable drive in bright sunshine to Limoges, stopping at the municipal site (see left for details).  We debated spending two nights but decided to carry on N to take advantage of the lack of trucks on a Sunday.   Sites open all year become a bit scarcer further north and we opted for one near Maintenon, some 20kms north of Chartres. We arrived on a cold, grey afternoon and we  were  initially somewhat disappointed at the bleakness, but once settled in we decided to take a break from travelling and stay two nights.  Good shopping in nearby Maintenon, which also has a picturesque chateau. Had the weather been better (it rained most of the second day) we would have taken advantage of the walk direct from the site through the forest and then along the River Eure, which runs through the valley.  We were up and away very early on the Tuesday, reaching Calais by midday in bright sunshine. What to do - stop two nights on the coast or try for an early ferry (our booking was for Thursday)?  Well, an hour or so and £29 later we on the ferry and enjoyed a smooth crossing. To carry straight on home would have meant 450+ miles and M25/M4 in the rush hour so we spent a relaxing afternoon/evening in glorious sunshine at the Black Horse Caravan Club site not far from Dover. Another sunny day saw us trundle home by midday with no hold-ups at all, but oh, the volume of traffic :(  

Tour Photographs

Tour Statistics:-  Overall mileage = 2,800 miles (4,480km) including towing 2,302 miles (3,603km).  £194 (circa €275) in autoroute tolls!  A total of 65 nights on 10 sites.

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Spain Spring 2008. 
The itinerary (Version 2) was to travel Portsmouth - Bilbao then to El Escorial, NW of Madrid.  This gave us the opportunity to explore El Escorial, Madrid, Segovia and Avilla. We then moved on to Toledo, Granada, Marbella, Cordoba, Sevilla then north parallel with the Portuguese border to Merida, Caceres, Placencia before swinging NE to Salamanca and Burgos.  The route:-


March - As ever, for our various European tours I rely heavily on the excellent Cadogan Guides in order to plan our itineraries and to refer to on the spot.  

On March 2nd we took the ferry from Portsmouth to Bilbao, a very brave (or foolhardy) move on my part as I usually turn green on anything other than a millpond. Just prior to our late evening sailing, the Captain announced that the forecast was for Gale Force 8 or Severe Gale Force 9 winds in the Channel - I did briefly consider a swift and immediate disembarkation! As it transpired, we missed the worst of the weather in the Channel but more than made up for it as we approached Bilbao. There with winds over 70mph, the Captain declared it too dangerous to try to berth, even with help from tugs. So we slowly stooged up and down waiting for a break in the weather. Heading into wind was not too bad, but going-about (note the expert maritime phraseology) meant being side on to the wind and weather, which made for ‘interesting’ times. Eventually we made the dock, with help from tugs, during a brief lull.

Also ‘interesting’ was the drive south from Bilbao as we experienced gale force winds accompanied by quite heavy snow, giving blizzard conditions at times. Our first week in Spain, just NW of Madrid  saw us experiencing continued very strong northerly winds, low temperatures but lots of bright sunshine. Good job we didn’t come for the warmth! Photos can be seen on my Flickr site

Toledo was a delight. The ancient citadel, perched high on a bluff above the river, is a bustling, thriving place to visit. The traffic is manic, the parking is imaginative but if one ignores such things, the buildings and atmosphere make it a wonderful place to spend time. Photos of our tour so far can be seen on my Gallery, in album Spain Spring 08.

Two weeks into our tour we arrived in Granada.  After the blizzards and low temperatures experienced in the first week, the move south from El Escorial to Granada (via the couple of days in Toledo) saw us make the sudden transition to mid-twenties deg C, lots of blossom on the trees, flowers in bloom and a general ‘greening’ of the countryside. It was very welcome indeed!  The main point of our visit to Granada was, of course, to see the Alhambra. On the day we were blessed with excellent sunny, warm weather and in the main, the Alhambra lived up to our expectations. The disappointments involved the areas closed for repairs, such as parts of the Lions Courtyard and the Hall of the Kings. Also very worthy of exploration is the Albaicin area of Granada, the most important area of Granada during the time of the Moors.

Further snippets of our travels to El Escorial (NW of  Madrid), Toledo and Granada can be read on my Blog.

We spent over three weeks at Camping Marbella Playa, some 10km east of Marbella.  Unlike the UK, we  enjoyed warm and sunny (if somewhat windy) weather this Easter.  Of course, being Easter the site was jam-packed with Spanish determined to enjoy the first holiday of the year and inevitably was very 'lively'.  One could almost hear the wave of 'tuts' emerging from the over-wintering Germans and Brits...

From the site one can walk (as we did on more than one occasion) the 10kms or so along the beach to central Marbella, explore the promenade and old town area, stop for tapas and a refreshing glass of white wine then catch the bus back.  We also enjoyed hiking in the hills, around the classic white Andalusian village of Istan as well as the inevitable visit to Ronda.  If the atmosphere is reasonably clear, from the beach one can see Gibraltar and if particularly clear, even the mountains of N Africa.  For the rest of the period after Easter the weather was 'wall-to-wall' sunshine until we came to pack-up when, for the first time in almost three weeks it rained and we ended up packing away a wet awning (Sod's Law).

Close to the Cathedral is the Alcazar - yet another surprise because once you are in the grounds, the gardens are astonishing in their size and variation of themes.  The building itself has yet more wonderful examples of Moorish architecture and decoration.  Not to be missed!

A 200km hop north took us to Merida in Extremadura.  This city has an amazing collection of Roman remains (it was once the capital of the vast Roman province of Lusitania) and with some exaggeration was compared to Athens.  The Moors quarried its monuments with many of the stones being used in Cordoba's Metzquita.  The 60-arch 1km long bridge survived and the remains of the Alcazaba (fortress), theatre, ampitheatre and Temple of Diana are all very worthy of exploration.  The Museo Nacional de Arte Romano was the highlight of the day for us, particularly the basement crypt where a Roman road and part of the town inhabited by the Visigoths can be seen.

80km north again brought us to the provincial capital, Caceres. The Plaza Mayor fronts onto the nearly perfectly preserved Roman and Moorish walls and towers, which enclose a beautiful 16th century citadel.  Wandering the narrow, cobbled lanes and alleys of the citadel is about the nearest one can get to stepping back in time (but without the smells and disease!).  To go even further back in time, drive west to Alcantara. Here you can view the remarkable Roman bridge over the River Tajo. Built in the year 105, the bridge's soaring arches are the highest ever achieved by the Romans. In the centre of the bridge is a monumental triumphant arch, at the eastern end is a 2nd Century temple and at the western end are 12th century fortifications.  Alcantara (means 'the bridge' in Arabic) is a worthy day out from Caceres.

Another 80km hop north and we arrived at Plasencia, founded by Alfonso III of Leon.  It has two Cathedrals, one begun in the 13th century, the other in the early 17th.  However, the main reason for stopping here was the Parque Natural de Monfragüe, just south of the city. Founded in 1979, this small nature reserve was designed to protect the Iberian lynxes, black storks, imperial eagles and various vultures that make their home in this remote region.  After all the pounding of city streets, being able to don our hiking boots and explore the beautiful countryside and river valleys was an absolute delight.  The way-marked trails include viewpoints where one can see the vultures nesting and even with the naked eye, see the fledglings lazing about in the sun.

                                    Griffon Vulture                                                                                            Monfragüe Lizard

Where to after Plasencia?  Ah yes, Salamanca!  What a wonderful surprise this city of golden stone gave us - it has an architectural cohesiveness that we had not expected.  In medieval times it was Spain's greatest university city and many of the impressive buildings from that era survive.  The 18th century Plaza Mayor must rank as the finest plaza in all of Spain.  The New Cathedral (completed in 1560) is a Gothic tour de force in terms of the scale, size and complexity of the stone carvings on it's portals and facades, whilst inside it is loftily airy.  If you decide on a picnic lunch, an ideal spot is the delightful small park/flower garden 'Huerto de Calixto y Melibea' (No. 66 on the Plano de Salamanca), perched on the southern end of the ancient city wall and overlooking the cathedrals.

Last stop on our tour was Burgos.  Whilst the running of the municipal campsite leaves a lot to be desired, it's location could hardly be bettered.  One can walk the 4km into the city centre on a path running alongside the river, through pleasant parkland - or catch a bus at the site entrance.  Whichever way you do it, make for the cathedral - it is absolutely stunning.  The nearby, riverside Paseo del Espolon is the avenue par excellence in Burgos and a meander along it will bring you to the Gate of Santa Maria, one of the twelve gates in the medieval city walls and the most impressive (viewed from the Paseo).


After Burgos, it was just 160km or so to the port at Bilbao and the ferry home.  In contrast to the outbound journey, the voyage back to Portsmouth was very smooth and pleasant.  

Tour Photograph Album

Brief Statistics:-
Total mileage = 2,333 (3733km), of which 1,700 (2,720km) was towing.  Sixty nights on eleven sites, average site fee = €19. Given the double whammy of increased fuel prices and the £ sinking against the €, I have not dared to total-up the amount spent on diesel...

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Germany Summer '08
As written in Tour of Germany Spring/Summer 2007 we were so delighted with our time on the island of Rügen that we were determined to revisit it at the earliest opportunity - which we did, arriving in early June via Calais, a one-night stop near Apeldoorn in the Netherlands and three nights in Lübeck.  As before, we chose Camping Meier as our base for the planned five week stay on the island.  
 
                            Lübeck Dom                                                                                     Our pitch at Camping Meier

Given that we would be arriving nearer the peak season than last year, we contacted the site by email in February, booking the five weeks and expressing the hope that we could have the same pitch as before. On arrival, we were warmly welcomed and the owner made great play of leading us through the site until we arrived at...the same pitch as last year - and we even had the same friendly neighbours. As the visit progressed, we decided that five weeks would not be long enough (!), so enquired about extending our stay for two further weeks. Bearing in mind that mid-July is absolute peak season and the site being fully booked, we were not too confident but Herr Meir and his staff managed to shuffle bookings/pitches such that we could stay on our pitch (just about the best on the site) for an extra eight days then they would move the caravan to another pitch for the last six days. Their friendliness, helpfulness and general attention to detail cannot be over-emphasised.  Camping Meier is located a couple of km's north of Binz and is an ideal location for exploring the south east part of Rügen, which is the most scenic part of the island, with rolling, wooded countryside dotted with picturesque hamlets. Agriculture here is relatively low-intensity and the fields of wheat etc are colourfully-bounded by brightly-coloured poppies and cornflowers. The coastline is convoluted, with numerous inlets, sweeping bays and peninsulas.

The over-riding reason for returning to Rügen was to continue our two-wheeled perambulations. An essential requirement in making the most of Rügen's network of cycle routes is the Kompass Wander und Bikekarte 737. This 1:50,000 map shows the on and off-road routes in detail as well as the topography of the island.  Usefully, the route markings show those sections of routes that are difficult (generally means either soft/sandy or particularly rough/bumpy) and one can plan accordingly.

Given that we had hardly touched the bikes since last October, our first rides were chosen with the aim of getting our legs (and bums!) back in trim. So it was off through Binz into the Granitzer Wald with it's delightful swoops and leg-testing hills, then on to the quaint and decorous coastal resorts of Sellin and Baabe.  Interestingly, the off-road routes such as those through the Granitzer Wald are not just used by mountain-bikers but by elderly locals and visitors on traditional 'sit-up and beg' bicycles.

As one swoops down to the lower edge of the forest, the cycle paths inevitably cross the narrow-gauge line of the Rasender Roland steam train, which regularly runs through this part of the island. If you are feeling a tad lazy, the train can be put to good use by riding from the campsite, through the forest, onto the coast at the very picturesque hamlet of Gross Stresow then continuing to the cultural centre of the island, Putbus (built in the 19th Century as a planned Neoclassical Residenzstadt by Prinz Wilhelm Malte) before putting the bikes on the train and returning to Binz. Another good ride direct from the campsite is to head to Sellin through the Granitzer Wald, then down the side of the Selliner See (lake) to Moritzdorf, cross the Baaber Rinne on the tiny man-powered ferry (a rowing boat!), cycle to the tip of the long, narrow Reddevitz peninsula before returning through Mariendorf, Middelhagen, Baabe and Sellin.  

For a change of direction, head north from the campsite through Prora to Neu Mukran, west to Lietzow then SW to the scenic village of Ralswiek, where lunch at the waterside restaurant is very pleasant indeed. The descent into Ralswiek is very steep and to avoid having to make the return ascent, detour through the hamlet of Jarnitz before returning along the rest of the outbound route.  

                        High & Dry in Ralswiek                                                                                        Schloss Ralswiek

Perched amidst the trees above Ralswiek is Schloss Ralswiek, modelled on a French chateau.  The terrace of the Schloss's restaurant also makes a fine location for lunch.

To visit the NE tip of the island, we put the bikes on the roof-rack, drove to Juliusruh then cycled north along the coast. This brings you to the isolated and impossibly-scenic coastal hamlet of Vitt before the path continues to Kap Arkona, with it's twin lighthouses and chalk cliffs. Head inland to Putgarten for a welcome cool beer then N to the coast before swinging W along the cliff tops for a while before turning S to Altenkirchen and Juliusruh.  The routes and variations are only limited by one's imagination and willingness to explore.  Destinations such as Glowe or Klein Zicker (both rides direct from the site) or Vieregge (park in Ralswiek) and the scenery enjoyed en-route leave one, like Oliver, asking for more! Of course, the combination of bikes, car + roof-rack and a good map enables one to make the most of the island, it's scenery and it's excellent network of cycle paths.

                            Kap Arkona                                                                                    View across the Lebbiner Bodden


A Word (or more) of Warning - Ticks!
...and I do not mean what you put in boxes.  In many parts of Germany, ticks (Zecken) are endemic. They can carry Lymes disease (lyme-borreliosis) and/or tick-born encephalitis, neither of which would you want to be infected with (look them up via Google if you want to be scared. A little fear and paranoia on the subject could actually be quite useful...) So, if you are going to wander (or ride) through long grass, undergrowth or bushes you need to take precautions. The little blighters can be as small as 1mm diameter, are hard to spot on the skin and seek out the body's warmer, cosier spots to insert their jaws and start feeding. If you are unfortunate enough to find one on you, remember the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy advice - 'Don't Panic'! Pop into the local Apotheke (pharmacy) and ask for Zeckenpinzette. This is a pair of tweezers specially designed to remove ticks without either squeezing it's body or leaving it's jaws embedded in you.  If you do squeeze it or even scare it (so do not try using a lit-cigarette or match), the tick will inject fluids into you and greatly increase the risk of infection.  I found one on my arm last year, did panic and did all the wrong things.  There is nothing like being wise after the event! Of course, prevention is better than the cure, so buy a Zeckenschutz spray and apply it to exposed areas prior to wandering off the beaten track.
 
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Tour of S England France & Spain Autumn 08
Given that we had spent March/April and early May touring Spain then June/July and early August touring Germany, it was our intention to spend autumn in the UK, particularly in view of the continuing weakness of the £ and high price of fuel.  However...after weeks of rain and exceedingly dull weather the desire for sunshine and warmth won over the prospect of sodden Dorset. A last minute decision was made, followed  a couple of days later by a dash to Dover.  So in mid-September began our latest tour.  Tour is perhaps something of a misnomer as we have, to a large extent, reprised our Autumn 07 tour.  From Calais we made overnight stops at Chartres (Camping Les Bords de l'Eure) and Limoges  (www.campinglimoges.fr)  prior to a new site near Castelnaudary, Camping La Capelle  in Saint-Martin-Lalande (see left).  This gave us the opportunity to discover new stretches of the Canal du Midi between Villefranche-de-Lauragais and Carcassonne. Of particular interest is the Obelsique de Riquet (a monument to Paul Riquet, the instigator and driving force behind the canal) along with the water-distribution system fed from the Montagne Noire, both located at the high point (watershed) of the canal.